I first heard about the Camino de Santiago maybe 5 years ago. My friend said she was going on a road trip. It was an attraction for me, just a journey and I really wanted to go along.
I didn't decide to walk the path, he himself called me. Nothing happens by accident!
I was even offended when I heard that I could fly together, but I would have to go a day or two away from her. At that time, I had no idea how it was possible to travel alone! Some kind of nonesense!!! And so that road remained someone else's road. And later I completely forgot about him...
But in the last years, I heard about him more and more often, he reminded me of himself with the stories of people who have passed away.
Every time the relationship ended, I reminded him and thought about him, but it didn't stick. And finally saw the movie "The Way" I decided I would go, I just didn't know when. I wanted so much to see that huge incense burner 🙂 And again, of course, I forgot. I saw the movie in May.
And one day in June, I sat at work and thought about the thoughts that have been tormenting me for a good year. How I'm stuck somewhere, how I don't know what I want and how difficult life is in general. How I want something, but I don't know what. How suffocated by all the boys and all the love… 🙂 Who am I and so on. It felt like life was passing by and I was just standing there watching it.
And suddenly I remembered the way. I realized that that time is now.
And when I thought that I might not take a month's vacation at work, I was even determined to proudly accept the resignation letter. There are simply no more excuses for not going and no more fears. I already had a one-way ticket in an hour. It remains to prepare the ammunition and go to the airport. Only on the last day before the flight, there was a strange feeling inside - it seemed that something was missing, something was ending. But now I think it was just a little excitement before something new!
I wrote to a couple of people who had already traveled the road, asked for advice and set off with all my belongings. I had to lie a little to my parents that I was going with a group of people from Lithuania, but the needle quickly came out of the bag 🙂
My journey began on August 29.
I will share the notes I took while there.
August 29
Already at the London airport at the boarding gate, it was clear that there would be a lot of us. Pilgrims are easy to recognize by their clothes and backpacks on their shoulders. There I met the first and only Lithuanian I met, Aurimas Mockų. Already in London I found a company with whom we went together to the town where the road begins. At the Saint Jean Pied de Port pilgrims' office, you pick up your passport, you get a list of places to stay - albergues and the distance between the towns, you listen to a short briefing, if you want, you pick up the pilgrim's shell and you're ready! Surprisingly, I felt very calm and in my place. Where I should have been.
August 30 The Pyrenees.
I hope the first day was the hardest. The question "what am I doing here?" it was really in my mind, but after reaching the first point it disappeared 🙂 Yesterday, the volunteer at the pilgrims' office explained and warned us not to choose the shorter, but very steep and dangerous descent from the mountain. Guess what I asked? And I remembered this warning half way down... The first albergue surprised me with its size, strangely, but I slept very peacefully together with 300 pilgrims. But where is the warm weather in Spain, I haven't figured it out yet...
August 30
Roncasvalles-Auritz-Aurizberri-Alto de Merkiritz-Viscarret-Lintroaint-Alto de Erro-Zubiri-Ilarratz-Eskirotz-Larrasoana - 40954 steps. According to the program, 35 km. According to colleagues, 27 km. But what's the difference, everyone is mine :), but I realized one thing - I won't be a climber! Well, I don't like those ups and downs. Today, one pilgrim reassured me, they will run out in 500 km! Today was a day of brainstorming.
Thoughts that people with shorter legs walk longer or at least take more steps; that why I didn't finish the hunting course, I would know now whose "stacks" and scent are left in the forest; that I walk the road and tread the same ground that the first pilgrims trod and countless more will pass after me; that the small stones of the road have only seen my shoes and are ready to jump on them, to travel together.
There were many other thoughts, some of which I won't even share. Later, after such leaps of thought, I thought, maybe I shouldn't have eaten the berries on the road... 🙂
September 1
Larrasoana-Pamplona-Zariquiegui, about 26 km, 39000 steps.
I have to say that the voice of tired legs is getting louder and made me stop. But I negotiated another 7 km. and now sitting in the albergue, I saw a pilgrim about 70 years old pass by. We went out together in the morning, and he calmly walks on to the next town. I glared at my feet, but we agreed to walk more later. I hope it won't lead...
When a friend told me NO to go along while preparing for a trip a few years ago, I didn't understand why at the time. Now I say thank you! Best wishes and happy holidays to you 🙂-) I have a delicious dinner and a good night's sleep. Never thought that going to bed at 9pm would seem so late.. (The Irishman I met in this albergue became my companion the rest of the way…)
September 2
So what dears. Today 30 km, ~46000 steps. It turns out I can do more. Yesterday I got an interesting companion for the night. I will single him out because when asked to turn on his side because he snores, he talked all night. I don't know if this is the sleep part or if he spent his sleep time babbling. I must admit it was done masterfully. ALL NIGHT! In the morning I was grateful when he turned the other way. Because I would probably be willing to walk another 10 km if he was in my room again... I won't even tell you about snoring, I just have to praise women, we have strong lungs 🙂 🙂women rule!!!
Today I had an Irish travel companion. A cool guy, about 60. Apparently, I wouldn't have gone this far without him, I couldn't give up! Well, I'll jump less often.)
Last night I was sitting and thinking... when can you spend so much time on the road that you don't feel stuck in a time frame. And suddenly it dawned on me…Parenting leave!!!! Well, that's when it started... well, you came up with nonsense here, Laura. Moose... it is necessary that the man agrees not to let go, but to go together. Because you can't handle all the things and a child. And while thinking like that, the family passes by. With the doll and all the stuff, in the morning I saw that he was not sleeping in a hotel, but in a tent. Everything is possible if there is a person next to you and there is a desire!!!
So… my desire remains, the path leads me. I'll pamper my legs, do a couple of stretching exercises (a German woman has passed the northern route and is now taking a pracuse lesson), I'll make dinner (which, as a rule, the more kilometers you walk, the tastier) and I'll fall face down into my sleeping bag while listening to the music, hoping for silence. New tomorrows are far away, undiscovered.
September 3
Finally Los Arcos! I thought I would do a happy dance when I saw the rooftops around the corner. After hanging out with Camino friends last night, we were late and didn't leave until 8 am. There is a photo of the wine fountain, but the wine was no longer flowing... we didn't know whether to be angry with the pilgrims who left earlier or the locals who forgot to turn on the tap. So much for what you will do.
We walk further and already feel the taste of coffee and breakfast in our mouths... but Sunday is a holy day here! Only the young man has been panting since yesterday and not a single cafe! And so 15 km. I thought, what's the matter, I don't eat breakfast at home. But I don't go with a 15 kilo backpack either. I understood the difference, I learned my lesson. I will be ready next Saturday.
Surprising tolerance on the road. Commendable, lessons to be learned. I make a mental list of what I have to do. Your language, which you try to communicate with Camino friends, your tan and your gait are never mocked here. I think everything is clear with the language, only the patient can make fun of it. Well, about the tan, you can understand, because everyone is the same. Oh, the walk... a day later is still going normally - respect for him. I haven't seen any... and don't laugh, because when you try to stand up and walk, you realize how you look and it's not clear what will happen tomorrow. Yesterday I had one blister, it was zaraza friends invited me 🙂) we had a long conversation, so I hope you won't come again tomorrow.
I literally have fun as much as I can. But hard work takes its toll. Today the sun punished us for leaving late. I had to bow to her and promise to get up earlier tomorrow.
From the number of people met, the Irish, Germans and Danes win. There are many of them here. The USA and England are not far behind. There was one other Finn, Norwegian, Australians and an aunt from PAR. Yesterday was fun when we all introduced ourselves where we were from and the American shouted with joy that he finally met someone from Lithuania! I don't know why it was so important to him, but it was cool. 🙂 And one aunt even took a picture of me, to show her husband his Lithuanian roots 🙂🙂 so is the steep Camino de Santiago. You don't know what tomorrow will offer you, you just have the mind to accept it. I forgot the steps 🙂🙂 ~39000
September 4
We got up early today. I will be very glad that I am not going alone. You know my fear of the dark. ~ 27 km, ~ 42000 steps. You still need to get into the city, but what's going on here, don't give up.
Every now and then it becomes more and more difficult to start walking after a break, the blisters take their toll. And it sprouts like mushrooms after the rain. But I have a great way to deal with them, Camino friends already called it Lithuanian 🙂🙂 as for me, I am proud and move on.
Today I thought why no inventor has yet created a backpack that automatically adapts to the wearer when it is put on. Now you turn ten straps in all directions and still something is wrong. They think of all sorts of things, but nothing like this. But I thank you every day that I can go on. A couple of days ago, we met an American woman whose life ended after breaking her elbow and nose. It was a hard fall, compared to my soft, fluffy landing. Thank you… others are still trying to continue the journey, strong people, or maybe just less injuries. Buen Camino!
Vytautas, damn it, something needs to be done about that herpes. Today, when I woke up, I put all the scientists on dog days (well, not so hard - I chatted a little), they can't seem to find anything to stop her... a hundred turkeys each.
I'm sitting now in the "salion" of the Albergo and like 10 different languages are being heard. An hour of communication with loved ones. And even though everyone has committed a crime, their eyes shine. They each go their own way. Isn't it beautiful… the glow is worth going for, at least trying.
September 5
Over 30, but I was determined to go another 10 when colleagues told me I had reached my travel point! I jumped 🙂-) it was so hard today. But after 18 km, he got his second breath, apparently inspired by the 10 km "Three Millions". And what, I want and I sing, whatever. I also remembered the repertoire of Stasios Povilaitis, because I deliberately did not remember anything else. That's how I walked through the vineyards singing songs and feasting on grapes (yes, the grapes are not washed). I hope there will be no consequences.
But keep going, but enough is enough. My fellow Irishman got on the bus today, his blisters took over. When I got up early, I went for a walk so I wouldn't catch the bus virus. Somehow many pilgrims used their services yesterday. It is even strange to see a bus stop full of pilgrims 🙂
The backpack started showing its horns today, in the true sense of the word. Stryp took it and got out. I scratched myself, but this is my own stupidity, don't be angry, after all, it's not her vacation here either.
Every day I feel the heat of Spain and the guilt of bragging about the cool weather. I miss him now.
When I get home, I'll have to read a human anatomy book, because somehow I can't understand what can happen every day. I hope the next week will be easier, because the body will finally understand that the owner will not give up and he will have to walk another 500 and a little km.
Exactly a week here. I will be happy, enjoy and walk a lot. I think I really deserve 2 glasses of wine tonight! (a Dane joined us and our trio walked shoulder to shoulder all the way to Santiago).
September 6
A monotonous section. It's good to go out in the dark, because you walk most of the way before the sun bakes. Coolness, peace, silence, only the crunch of gravel underfoot. Soothing. But… I jumped like a bunny at every sound 🙂🙂 and road markings are easy to lose. I went back several times to check if I was going the right way. 27 km to cover today. It seems small when you hear that people leave after 50. I call them terminators. For me, the road is no longer a race.
Well, everyone has their own way.
I went with Marion. I listened to my modest playlist several times. I heard the songs differently today. You listen at home and sometimes you don't even think about the lyrics. I heard the texts today. It sounded different... and I thought to myself, don't you have to go all the way to Kaunas and a little more to listen? Yes. According to the signs, I have already gone to Kaunas. I would say idiots who walk to Kaunas.
Every day the road becomes more and more monotonous, in terms of images. Maybe I'm used to it and don't notice anymore? Maybe I need to poke my thigh to notice the beauty. I passed sunflower fields. Ripe. I can imagine the beauty when the fields are blooming. I would love to come back in the spring…
The funnest part is when I arrive at the designated point, two men are waiting for me. They are happy to see how the child received the candy. No. I don't envy them, because they ride the bus, and I walk by myself. Step by step I am getting closer or further away, as you see. It's not over yet, but I can safely say - the best trip ever!
September 7
Sun, heat, the road is a bit more interesting than yesterday. Although I didn't see much, maybe the topic was heavy in my head. I left three sleeping men and two girls. I left first. Although I am thankful for my alarm clock Chris, without him I would have probably been the last one to leave 🙂🙂 sleep peacefully my alarm clocks at home, I am taken care of here. The girls walked most of the way, the men took the bus. Two can't walk yet, and one just isn't interested in walking along the highway.
Chris and Aidan keep joking that they have to take the bus to get their princess ready for a proper welcome 🙂🙂 yes yes, here I am the princess 🙂😀
So thoughts about the stronger and the weaker sex swirled around in my head and rolled out in conversation when everyone met again. We women can do a lot on our own, but do we have to? After all, it's so fun when they bring you a chair to sit on and bring you a cold drink, even though both are lame! It's fun! And how good it is 🙂🙂 I never thought that we make men ourselves... well, everyone will choose the answer 🙂🙂 and it doesn't matter how many kilometers we walk.
Yes, for now I am more, but you never know what tomorrow will bring. And it's so nice when you know that when you go to the meeting place, you will see the pride and joy in their eyes for me. For a person whom you may not meet again in your life. Respect to them, respect to men in general. After all, it is so difficult for them, when we want to be independent, to remain men 🙂🙂
Literally a jumble of thoughts, but you get the gist. The princess is me 🙂
PS about 27 km, ~39000 steps on a short walk.
September 8 day before Burgos.
It's a rough night. Maybe 7 snores. Fatigue drags on. Hungry. 36 km. ~46000 steps. Eat and sleep - all the wishes of the day 🙂
September 9
Thank you all for your support, but it was morning when I decided to rest. The desire to go is stronger than the body, I don't want to push... unfortunately I will have to give in to him. There are still many days ahead.
Burgos Cathedral is amazing! It's a beautiful city, but somehow I don't want to stay in cities. There are so many wonderful little towns and it feels much more homely than in a big city.
September 11
The events of the days get mixed up, the days of the week don't make sense, I don't try to remember the names of the towns anymore, at least I remember the bigger cities. Only the kilometers are ticking, the legs are moving forward. The eyes take longer and longer to look around. You pull out your phone less and less to take a picture of something. More often, you try to remember the whole - an image, a feeling, a thought. Life is wonderful!
September 12
So what 🙂) today there were already three of us. The guys tried to pass after the break. New blisters, new treatment options, consultation with doctors over the phone, what to do. Everyone's answer is the same - rest. You want to kiss your feet because they hold up so well! Of course, it takes me half an hour to prepare it in the morning - creams, powders and everything here 🙂🙂 they are ready in 5 minutes.
Perhaps this is the difference, this is where the blisters appear.
For a few days, the road feels like home. Lithuanian fields, trees, the smell of cut grass. We passed the forest today and Dan and I both decided that there should definitely be mushrooms 🙂🙂 but there was a forest on the other side of the canal. But we decided to find another place to eat.
September 14
I inherited it to the other half of the road. I will be happy, but sad at the same time. It was just the beginning, and look here and it's already the end. Road. So much in it. You meet new people, and it feels like you've known them for a hundred years. This is where dreams come true, giving way to new ones. Feelings flare up here, but old ones die.
You lose something, but you find something. A smile is replaced by tears. Old memories are replaced by new ones. Wounds heal, but new ones open. Time loses its meaning here, but at the same time it is the most important thing that frames you. All in one. It's just a tiny part of your life, but it's also your whole life right now. People are happy to meet, and here the tear of separation is already rolling. But I think everyone leaves a part of themselves here, taking a part of the road with them.
September 16
It's already cold here 🙂🙂 I don't know, but I think there is something wrong with the weather in Spain…
September 17
Fatigue disappears after seeing the first shooting star and a different sunrise. I will miss…
La Cruz De Ferro is a magical place where people leave something, let something go…. I left too.
September 21
Only 100 km left. Don't expect. It seems impossible to walk that far. Today's road led through meadows and forests very reminiscent of Lithuania. Homesickness is getting stronger, fatigue does not disappear even in the morning. Dragging behind you like a fly. There are so few left, although others are just starting their way here. Everyone walks with their heads held high, full of energy. I look at them and I'm not jealous at all. If I go again and again I will choose the whole way.
More and more often I think that there are a few days left, and what's next? 🙂 and life goes on. The Camino family will split up and everyone will live their lives again. But I know that this part of our lives will remain forever in our hearts. It was worth it! And I know for sure that one day I will come back and say again with a smile "Buen Camino!"
September 22
The last hundred kilometers are different. For the first time, there was a jam of pilgrims on the road 🙂🙂 plus all Americans who saw the movie "The way" and decided that they must see it for themselves. Every morning, a taxi brings it to the place, sets it off and collects it again after a few km. It's fun, everyone has their own way. I have nothing against you, just don't look at me with pitying eyes. That's all 🙂-)
But today I heard another story. An elderly woman with difficulty walking walks maybe 10 km every day, how does she manage. Then the taxi goes to the accommodation. But the next morning he returns to the exact place where he left off yesterday and continues. I don't know how long her journey will last, but respect to her..
And an essential question. Men, why do you think your sweat smells like flowers? You can feel at peace when you snore, even when you decide that there is nothing like sleeping naked with 40 other people 🙂🙂 but he could take a shower…. oh and also... the smell of sweat does not magically evaporate from clothes! Sorry if I upset someone 🙂
September 23
Today is a crazy day! Running in Pamplona with bulls, mushroom picking and fried boletus for lunch🙂
Well, well... and that's how it was. Not in Pamplona, but two days from Santiago. And not bulls, but one mad cow. We walk calmly on the road, we passed two other pilgrims. We exchanged "Hola!" Buen Camino!” And next to the road, a cow's head is sticking out of the bushes and is looking straight at us. I immediately said that this cow is a hit, but of course the men don't believe it! A few meters before her, she rushed to the road and started to run away from us. Ok, apparently he was scared. Calm down. But after turning a circle, she started chasing us. It must have been fun to watch from the side how 5 pilgrims with backpacks started to run away from the cow. Funny huh? Not for me! I don't know how, but I managed to just jump over the fence (it took two men to help me get off) and after taking the walking stick from Christoffer, I was ready to attack!
I don't know if the cow got scared or died laughing inside when she saw me, but she suddenly turned to the fields. I didn't give up the stick for a good hour 🙂🙂
But for this sneaking in, we were rewarded with a few boletus, which we ate for lunch! It is clear that everyone around after a few times are we sure that they are safe to eat.🙂
September 25
Santiago!!! You don't expect it yet… but here I come!!! I'm crying
September 26 in Finnister
This is where the road ends. But another one begins. Longer, without links, without arrows and albergues. I will continue…
For me, the road was not the kilometers walked, for me the road was the walk itself - the way I want, the way I see and feel it. I wanted to go alone, but as they say, we plan, and God laughs. It was the third or fourth day that we walked together. On the sixth day - all three 🙂 and so on to Santiago. We each learned from each other and only after returning did I realize how much I needed them and how they helped.
what did i get
- A meeting with yourself
- Self acceptance
- I learned to let go
- Gratitude arose
- Accepting the world and other people as they are
- Trust in others
- Give without expecting anything, take without feeling guilty
- Seeing details
- I realized how good it is to be here and now, to be myself
- Assuredness
- Lowering or abandoning expectations
- Plan less
- Say YES to offers
I'm not even talking about mental leaps 🙂
I am still learning everything and I think I will discover even more on my way. I probably didn't write down everything I received, but I know for sure that he translated. And YES, I would still go, I really wouldn't change anything 🙂 If you doubt, fear or some other worm is biting you - just try it 🙂
I told everyone and I'll say it again, I found what I was looking for and more! It is definitely the best trip of a lifetime!!!
- Laura